This third edition provides ample evidence on specific cosmeceutical substances, their classes of use, skin conditions for which they are used, and points of interest arising from other considerations, such as toxicology and manufacturing. The book discusses both cosmetic and therapeutic uses of cosmeceuticals for various conditions including rosacea, dry skin, alopecia, eczema, seborrheic dermatitis, purpura, and vitiligo.

Table of Contents

• Preface
• Contributors
• Chapter 1 Bakuchiol: A Retinol-Like Functional Compound, Modulating Multiple Retinol and Non-Retinol Targets
• Background
• Bakuchiol, a Functional Analog of Retinol
• Preventative and Restorative Anti-Aging
• Antioxidant
• Inflammation
• Matrix Metalloprotease (MMP)
• Extracellular Matrix Proteins
• Skin Hydration and Barrier Homeostasis
• Anti-Acne
• Skin Lightening and Even Toning
• Antimicrobial
• Other Targets
• Protein Tyrosine Phosphatases (PTPs)
• DNA Polymerases
• Tumor Suppressor p53
• Signal Transducer and Activator of Transcription 3(STAT3)
• Hypoxia Inducible Factor 1 (HIF-1)
• Conclusion
• REFERENCES
• Chapter 2 Cutaneous Applications of Caffeine
• Introduction
• Background
• Clinical Uses
• Caffeine and Skin Barrier Penetration
• Prevention of Non-Melanoma Skin Cancers
• Antioxidant Properties of Caffeine
• Reduction in Facial Redness
• Anti-Cellulite
• Hair Growth
• Future Applications of Topical Caffeine
• Conclusion
• REFERENCES
• Chapter 3 Curcumin in Cosmetics: Biochemical Basis for Skin Repair with Use of Topical Curcumin
• Introduction
• Signaling Pathways Induced by Skin Injury
• Sequence of Early Events in Injury: Pathways Blocked by Curcumin
• Role of NF-κB in Injured Skin: Inhibition by Curcumin
• Activation of NF-κB and IkBα Kinase: Blocked by Curcumin
• Role of Phosphorylase Kinase in NF-κB and IkBα Kinase Activation: Inhibition by Curcumin
• Types of Skin Injury
• Burns and Traumatic Wounds
• Curcumin as an Agent for Rapid Healing of Burns, and UV Light Injury and Photodamaged Skin
• Cyclobutane Pyrimidine Dimers and DNA Damage
• Signaling Pathways Induced by Acute and Chronic Solar Injury: Inhibition by Curcumin
• Laser and IPL Injury
• Clinical Applications
• Summary
• References
• Chapter 4 The Cosmetic and Therapeutic Uses for Epicatechin-3-Gallate (EGCG)
• Overview
• Uses of EGCG in Cosmetics
• Anti-Aging Uses
• Hair Growth
• Sunscreen
• Applications for EGCG in Skin Diseases
• Keloids
• Wound Healing
• Psoriasis
• Acne Vulgaris
• Atopic Dermatitis
• Toxicity and Pharmacokinetics
• Concluding Remarks
• References
• Chapter 5 Ellagic Acid
• Overview
• UV-Induced Skin Aging
• Hyperpigmentation
• Side Effects
• Conclusion
• REFERENCES
• Chapter 6 Gamma-Linolenic Acid–Containing Vegetable Oils
• Introduction
• GLA-Rich Vegetable Oils and Skin Health
• Animal Studies
• Clinical Evaluation
• Dry or Sensitive Healthy Skin
• Atopic Eczema
• Other Skin Problems
• Sources of GLA
• Mechanism of Action
• Conclusions
• References
• Chapter 7 Hexylresorcinol: Providing Skin Benefits by Modulating Multiple Molecular Targets
• Background
• Antimicrobial
• Antitumor
• Anti-Aging
• Antioxidant
• Inflammation
• Glycation
• Melanin and Melanogenesis
• Pigmentation
• Skin Lightening/Even-Toning
• Human Clinical
• Formulation
• Conclusion
• References
• Chapter 8 Hydroxyacids
• Introduction
• Chemical Structure and Natural Sources of AHAs
• Biologic Activities of Hydroxyacids
• Effects on Corneocyte Cohesion and Stratum Corneum Functions
• Peeling and Caustic Effects
• Hypopigmenting Effect
• Acne and Pseudofolliculitis Treatment
• Boosting Skin Physiology
• Safety
• Conclusions
• References
• Chapter 9 Kinetin
• Introduction
• Chemistry
• Biology
• Mechanism of Action
• Clinical Studies
• Conclusion
• REFERENCES
• Chapter 10 Topical Resveratrol
• Introduction
• Background
• Cosmeceutical Uses
• Resveratrol and Skin Barrier Penetration
• Antioxidant Properties
• Skin Barrier Repair
• Photoprotective Properties
• Photoaging and Hyperpigmentation
• Scarring
• Wound Healing
• Other Uses of Resveratrol
• Conclusion
• REFERENCES
• Chapter 11 Impact of Rhodiola rosea on Skin
• Rhodiola rosea
• Phytochemistry of R. rosea
• Health Benefits of R. rosea
• Rhodiola rosea as an Anti-Aging Botanical Extract
• The Impact of R. rosea on Cultured Skin Cells
• Rhodiola rosea and Potential Skin Applications
• Conclusion
• References
• Chapter 12 Silymarin
• Introduction
• Silymarin Antioxidant Properties in Skin
• Silymarin Photoprotective Properties in Skin
• Silymarin Anticancer Properties in Skin
• Silymarin Anti-Fibrotic Properties in Skin
• References
• Chapter 13 Topical Niacinamide
• Introduction
• Background
• Biochemistry and Pharmacology
• Role in Skin Diseases
• Medical Applications
• Topical Use
• Treatment of Photoaging
• Epidermal Barrier Function Repair
• Inflammatory Dermatoses
• Acne
• Reduction in Hyperpigmentation
• Wound Healing
• Commercially Available Products
• Conclusion
• REFERENCES
• Chapter 14 Anti-Aging Topical Peptides and Proteins
• Introduction
• Biology of Aging Skin
• Topical Cosmeceuticals and Skin Permeability
• Types of Topical Peptides
• Topical Signal Oligopeptides
• GHK-Cu, GHK-Mn, Pal-GHK, Biopeptide-CL
• Pal-KTTKS, SAP, and Pal-KT
• Syn-Coll and Biopeptide-EL
• Tripeptide-10 Citrulline
• Palmitoyl VGVAPG
• Hexapeptide-11 and Hexapeptide-14
• Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
• Signal Acetyl Tetrapeptides
• Kinetin and Pyrantine-6
• Melatonin
• Interferon-α
• Growth Factors
• Heat Shock Proteins (HSPs)
• PEP-rpS3
• Keratin
• Topical Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides
• Soybean Protein
• Rice Peptides
• Acetyl Tetrapeptides
• Silk Protein
• Topical Neurotransmitter Inhibitor Peptides
• Acetyl Peptide Neurotransmitter Inhibitors
• Pentapeptides and Tripeptide-3
• Conclusions
• References
• Chapter 15 Amino Acids and Derivatives
• Introduction
• Amino Acids Basic Features
• Existence and Roles of Amino Acids in the Skin
• Harmonized Integrity of Skin Function with Amino Acids
• Effective Amino Acid Delivery into Skin
• Amino Acid Derivatives for Extended Applications
• Conclusions
• References
• Chapter 16 Antioxidants
• Introduction
• Reactive Oxygen Species
• Constitutive Skin Antioxidant Network
• Effects of Environmental Stressors on Skin Antioxidants
• Photoprotection of Human Skin by Topical Antioxidants
• Vitamin E
• Vitamin C
• Polyphenols
• Green Tea Polyphenols
• Other Polyphenols
• Thiol Antioxidants
• Other Antioxidants
• Antioxidant Combinations
• Evaluating Antioxidants
• Antioxidants and Sunscreens
• Non-Conventional Antioxidants
• Concluding Comments
• REFERENCES
• Chapter 17 Decorative Cosmetics
• Introduction
• Color Chemistry
• Organic Pigments
• Categories of Organic Colorants
• azo Colorants: −N = N−
• Xanthenes
• Triarylmethane
• Anthraquinone
• Quinoline
• Indigoid
• Stability of Organic Pigments
• Natural Dyes2
• Inorganic Pigments3–6
• Titanium Dioxide (TiO2)
• Zinc Oxide (ZnO)
• TiO2, ZnO, and Composite Materials in Sunscreens
• TiO2 and ZnO
• Nano
• Non-Nano
• Composite Series (TiO2, ZnO, CB)
• Iron Oxides
• Ultramarines
• Manganese Violet
• Iron Blue
• Chromium Oxide
• Chromium Hydroxide
• Pearlescent Pigments and Other Specialty Pigments
• Pearlescent Pigments
• Organic Pearls
• Inorganic Pearls
• Bismuth Oxychloride (BioCl)
• TiO2 Coated Mica
• Specialties
• Treated Pigments11–16
• Microfine Pigments
• Light Diffusing Pigments
• Color Pigment Complexes
• Makeup Technology
• Powder Cosmetics
• Face Powders
• Loose Face Powders
• Pressed Face Powders
• Face Powder Ingredients35
• Talc
• Kaolin
• Calcium Carbonate
• Magnesium Carbonate
• Metallic Soap
• Starch
• Mica
• Sericite
• Polymers
• Colorants
• Perfumes
• Preservatives
• Powder Blushers
• Pressed Powder Eye Shadows
• Quality Assurance of Powder Products
• Color
• Penetration and Drop Tests
• Glazing and Payoff
• Foundation
• Emulsified Foundations
• Anhydrous Foundations
• Eye Makeup37,41
• Mascara
• Solvent Based
• Water-in-Oil
• Oil-in-Water Emulsions
• Anhydrous Mascara
• Mascara Componentry
• Cream Eye Shadows
• Eyeliners
• Pencils (Eyeliner, Lip Liner, Eye Shadow, Lipstick, Brow, Blush, and Concealer)
• Lipsticks38
• Classical Lipstick
• Volatile Lipstick
• Skin Color Strategies21
• Naturals in Cosmetics
• Nail Color39,40,42
• Film Formers
• Quality Control of Colorants
• Establishment of Standards
• Test Methods
• Shade Evaluation
• Heavy Metals
• Particle Size
• Bulk Density
• Color Regulations
• Color Additive Regulation
• United States: Food and Drug Administration (FDA)
• Europe (EU): European Commission (EC)
• Japan: Ministry of Health and Welfare (MHW)
• Color Additive: Definitions
• Primary/Straight Color
• Dye
• Pigment
• Lake
• Toner
• Toner Pigment
• Extender
• United States Regulations
• 21 CFR Part 73 (1): Listing of Color Additives Exempt from Certification
• 21 CFR Part 74 (1): Listing Color Additives Subject to Certification
• 21 CFR Part 82 (1): Listing of Certified Provisionally Listed Colors
• Proposed Permanent Listing of Color Additive Lakes (FR Vol. 61 #43), March 4, 199632
• European Regulations
• Annex IV: Listing of Coloring Agents Allowed in Cosmetic Products
• Lakes and Salts
• Purity Criteria
• Japanese Regulations
• Positive List
• Inorganic/Natural Colorants
• U.S. Colorants Not Permitted/Restricted in Japan
• Acknowledgments
• References
• Chapter 18 Hair Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals
• Definitions of Terms Used for Components of Hair Products
• Hair Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals
• Introduction
• Hair Structure and Function
• Shampoos
• Conditioners
• Fixatives
• “Natural” Products
• Recent Advances in Hair-Care Products
• Conclusion
• References
• Chapter 19 Moisturizers: Treatment of Dry Skin Syndrome and Barrier Defects
• Introduction
• Composition of Moisturizers
• Fats, Oils, and Emulsifiers
• Effects of Fats and Oils Applied to the Skin
• Humectants and Water
• Effects of Water and Humectants on the Skin
• Preservatives and Antioxidants
• Application of Moisturizers
• Moisturizers and Skin Barrier Function
• Preventing and Restoring Skin Barrier Defects
• Moisturizers in Hyperkeratosis
• Ichthyosis
• Foot Xerosis and Cracked Heel
• Moisturizers in Atopic Eczema Therapy
• Delay in Eczema Relapse
• Moisturizers in Pediatric Skin Care
• Concluding Remarks
• References
• Chapter 20 Cosmeceutical Treatments of the Nail
• Anatomy of the Nail Unit
• Nail Disorders
• Brittle Nails
• Onychoschezia
• Onycholysis
• Cosmeceutical Treatments
• Biotin
• Genadur Nail Laquer Containing Equisetum Arvense Extract
• Pyridoxine and Ascorbic Acid
• Vitamin E
• Sulfur-Containing Proteins
• Calcium
• Iron
• Zinc
• Selenium
• Silica
• Conclusion
• References
• Chapter 21 Botanicals and Cosmeceuticals for Sun Protection
• Introduction
• Photoprotective Effect of Botanicals
• Lycopene
• Camellia sinensis
• Caffeine
• Sanguinaria Canadendid
• Silybum marianum
• Polypodium leucotomos
• Resveratrol
• Curcumin
• Pomegranate
• Genistein
• Honeybush
• Pycnogenol
• Vitamin C
• Vitamin E
• Current Controversies and Conclusions
• REFERENCES
• Chapter 22 UV Care
• Introduction
• Acute UV-Induced Skin Damage
• Chronic UV-Induced Skin Damage
• ROS Generated by UV Irradiation and Skin Damage
• Reactive Oxygen Species
• Singlet Oxygen
• Lipid Peroxide
• Prevention of Skin Damage
• Antioxidants
• Carotenoids
• Ion-Chelators
• Other Anti-Wrinkle Agents
• Sunscreen
• UV Filters
• Sun Protection Factor
• UVA Protection
• Application of Sunscreen
• Prevention of Photoactivation
• Conclusion
• REFERENCES
• Chapter 23 Topical Vitamins E, C, and Ferulic Acid and Topical L-Selenomethionine
• Introduction
• Background
• Cumulative Environmental Damage
• Sunscreen Is Not Enough
• Advantages of Topical Antioxidants
• Topical L-Selenomethionine
• Vitamin E
• Vitamin C
• Vitamin C + E
• Vitamin C + E + Ferulic Acid
• Conclusion
• References
• Chapter 24 The Use of Cosmeceuticals in Rosacea
• Introduction
• Pathogenesis
• Treatments: Vitamins (Table 24.1)
• Niacinamide
• Plant Extracts (Table 24.1)
• Feverfew
• Licorice Extract
• Crysanthellum indicum Extract
• Quassia amara
• Phytochemicals (Table 24.1)
• Epigallocatechin-3-Gallate (EGCG)
• Herbal Formulation (Table 24.1)
• Chibixiao Recipe
• Sulfur
• Silymarin/Methylsulfonilmethane
• Sulfacetamide 10%/Sulfur 5%
• Efficacy of Botanicals for Specific Rosacea Symptoms
• Adverse Reactions
• Conclusions
• References
• Chapter 25 Cosmeceutical Treatments for Androgenetic Alopecia
• Pathogenesis
• Cosmeceutical Treatments
• 5α-Reductase Inhibitors
• Other Cosmeceuticals
• References
• Chapter 26 Eczema, Xerosis, and Cutaneous Barrier Repair
• Introduction
• Conditions Involving Compromised Skin Barrier
• Atopic Dermatitis
• Contact Dermatitis
• Xerosis
• Special Considerations for Infants
• Current Treatments and Barrier Repair
• Specific Physiologic Targets
• Clinical Assessment of Moisturizer Efficacy
• Conclusion
• Acknowledgments
• REFERENCES
• Chapter 27 Melasma and Depigmentation Agents
• Introduction
• Clinical Presentation
• Histopathologic Findings
• Risk Factors, Etiology, and Pathogenesis
• Differential Diagnosis
• Cosmeceutical Options for Melasma Treatment
• Hydroquinone
• Mequinol
• N-Acetyl-4-S-Cysteaminylphenol (NCAP)
• Azelaic Acid
• Kojic Acid
• Retinoids
• Ascorbic Acid
• Alpha Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
• Niacinamide
• Lignin Peroxidase
• Botanical Agents
• Grape Seed Extract
• Orchid Extract
• Licorice Extract
• Arbutin
• Aloe Vera Extract
• Boswellia
• Cinnamic Acid
• Marine Algae Extract
• Soy
• Flavonoids
• Green Tea Extract
• Coffeeberry
• Pycnogenol
• N-Acetyl Glucosamine
• Mulberry Extract
• Conclusion
• References
• Chapter 28 The Use of Cosmeceuticals for Oily Skin, Seborrhea, and Seborrheic Dermatitis
• Introduction
• Clinical Presentation
• Seborrheic Dermatitis
• Oily Skin
• Risk Factors, Etiology, and Pathogenesis
• Differential Diagnosis
• Cosmeceutical Options for Oily Skin and Seborrheic Dermatitis (Table 28.1)
• In Vitro Studies
• Clinical Studies
• Agents Studied for Oily Skin
• Agents Studied for Seborrheic Dermatitis
• Shampoo
• Conclusion
• References
• Chapter 29 Cosmeceutical Treatments for Purpura
• Overview
• Etiology of Benign Purpura
• Clinical Studies (Table 29.1)
• Topical Vitamin K
• Topical Arnica Montana
• Side Effects
• Conclusion
• References
• Chapter 30 Vitiligo (Repigmentation Agents)
• Introduction
• Background
• Types of Vitiligo
• Clinical Features
• Classification of Vitiligo
• Pathophysiology of Vitiligo
• First-Line Treatments
• Topical Therapies
• Calcineurin Inhibitors
• Phototherapy: Nbuvb and Photochemotherapy
• Second-Line Treatments
• Vitamin D Analogs
• Other Treatments
• Afamelanotide
• Pseudocatalase
• Topical Pseudocatalase Plus Nbuvb
• Combination Therapy with Dead Sea Climatotherapy
• Polypodium Leucotomos (Heliocare)
• Antioxidant and Immunomodulating Properties
• Immunomodulatory Effects
• Oral P. Leucotomos in Combination with Narrow-Band UVB
• Combination Oral Antioxidants with NBUVB
• Topical Prostaglandin E
• Alternative Therapies
• Ayurvedic Medicine
• Herbal Remedies
• Other Treatments
• Conclusion
• REFERENCES
• Chapter 31 Botanical Extracts
• Introduction
• Origin of Botanical Extracts
• Extraction Process
• Total Extracts
• Selective Extracts
• Purification
• Biotechnology Extracts
• Usage and Applications
• Properties
• Skin Moisture and Barrier Functions
• Aging
• Antioxidants
• Pigmentation
• Acne
• Antimicrobial Applications
• Anti-Cellulite or Slimming
• Conclusion
• REFERENCES
• Chapter 32 Biomarine Actives
• Biomarine Extracts
• Seaweeds
• Fucoidan
• References
• Chapter 33 Analytical Chemistry of Botanical Extracts
• Introduction
• Basic Approaches
• Chromatography Overview
• GC-MS
• HPLC and HPLC-MS
• Tandem Mass Spectrometry (MS/MS)
• High-Resolution Mass Spectrometry
• Analysis of Metabolites
• Analyte Quantification and Sample Preparation
• Summary
• References
• Chapter 34 Legal Distinction in the United States between a Cosmetic and a Drug
• Historical Overview
• Legislative History of the Cosmetic and Drug Provisions of the 1938 Act
• Implementation of the FD&C ACT
• Initial FDA Action Under the FD&C Act
• Wrinkle Remover Cases of the 1960s
• OTC Drug Review
• Warning Letters of the Late 1980s
• The Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA) Products of the 1990s
• The Eyelash Enhancer Products in the 2000s
• Use of Foreign Marketing Experience
• Rationale of the Tobacco Initiative
• Labeling and Manufacturing Difficulties for Cosmetic Drugs
• Claims for Organic Cosmetics
• Budgetary Impact on the FDA
• Potential Future Approaches
• Conclusion